1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera S
3.1 V6 code M
When we bought this Oldsmobile, I was disappointed that the Cruise Control didn't work. My wife was preparing to make her first 300 mile trip in the Olds so I wanted everything to work right, including the Cruise Control.
I expected it would take a lot of work to find the problem and fix it. So I went to the Internet to see what I could find about it. After much searching with no results, I found this page:
"Question: The cruise control quit working on my 95 cutlass cierra ... .
Answer: Hi Adam, Check the stop lights in the rear window, and I'll bet a dollar one or probably both bulbs are burned out. I had the same problem with my 95 Cutlass Ciera, and that is what it was.
We rushed to the car to try the stop lights and sure enough, the high center stoplight didn't work. I went to the Auto Parts Store and bought two bulbs.
I certainly didn't want to break the stoplight housing so I searched for how to remove it. I looked for some hidden screws but couldn't find any.
There were no instructions in the Haynes Manual, no instructions at my on-line
I replaced the bulbs and now I had a high center stoplight working. I took the Olds out for a test drive and guess what? The Cruise Control worked! Ha, ha. Thank you Van.
Cruise Control, Stop Lights, Battery Quick Disconnect
Battery Negative Quick Disconnect
It seems that many of the "test it - fix it" items tell me to remove the negative battery cable before doing the work. Whoever designed the battery position in this car obviously never had to access the battery.
If you look closely at the picture below, you might see the positive corner of the battery hidden under the support bar and the negative side hidden under the front fender.
There is no way on this good earth to get my hand close enough to the negative terminal bolt, to remove the cable. Even if I could get the negative cable loose with some kind of wrench, there is no way that I could get the cable replaced without getting my hand in there. So I needed a battery "Quick Disconnect" installed on the negative cable.
There are some good battery "quick disconnect" items for sale on the Internet, but I was in a hurry so I shopped locally. The only such item available locally is the one pictured below. I bought one for $10.00 and proceeded to install it.
After much agony, I was able to get the battery tilted backward just enough to get a support under it to keep it tilted back enough to get my hand on the negative bolt.
It took me a considerable amount of time and several unmentionable mutterings plus skinned knuckles to get the old cable off and the new "quick disconnect" in place.
After I finished the job, I was well pleased with what I had accomplished ... until.
I had to do the entire project all over again because someone didn't crimp the cable into its housing. I could have used heavy pliers and crimped it myself but I wanted to share the misery. I returned the dis-assembly to the Parts Store and got apologies plus another "quick disconnect". This time I crimped it myself.
Moral of the story: just because a cable is stuck into its terminal end, doesn't mean that it is secure in its terminal end. Pull on it before installing.
In the picture below, you can see the "quick disconnect" finally in place. I think I'll design my own disconnect later but for now, this one works.
Above, you can see why I can't get a hand down to the battery terminal. I can barely
reach it with a finger. And no, the battery will not move toward the engine and it will
not move back even a fraction of an inch. The only movement is a slight tilt to the rear.
That's why I need the "quick disconnect".
I'll have more items about the Olds Cutlass Ciera S 3.1 V6 soon.